23 September 2016
A kaleidoscopic fairytale by Gucci and Fay’s military-inspired looks opened Milan’s women’s wear fashion show with a display of clothing and accessories for spring and summer 2017.
The Italian capital of fashion would for the next four days be the setting for runway shows.
It would also be the setting for art exhibitions, boutique openings and events as fashionistas, buyers, designers and bloggers flock to the city from around the world.
In Gucci’s magic lanterns collection, layered and ruffled gowns, gold decorations and outfits echoing a hippy style took center stage.
Dragons, jelly fish and parrots decorated coats and dresses and two zebras stood on a big orange fur coat.
To the beat of melancholic violins, models strutted down a starred and striped pink carpet in a former rail station dressed up in metallic pink panelling.
Glittered glasses or intricate fascinators and turban were worn by many, with studded platforms on their feet, in creative designer Alessandro Michele’s fourth women’s collection since being appointed in January 2015.
A designer’s note read: “in this collection, all the clothes tell a story steeped in wonder, phantasmagoria and unorthodoxy.’’
Models for Fay wore military-inspired clothing and gladiator-style sandals, softened by embroidered tops, Asian details, flowers and patterns echoing 1970s style, only steps away.
The green, blue and grey military army tones were leavened by metal sequins, suede and golden accessories, including practical hobo bags.
Tommaso Aquilano, who since 2010 has been creative director with Roberto Rimondi for Fay’s brand, part of Italian luxury group, said: “we tried to keep pace with changing trends, using elements of street clothing, sports as well as contemporary lines.’’
Aquilano added that inspiration came from the 1970s and the 1990s,“moments in which fashion went through significant evolutions’’.
But the collection, defined by designers as grunge and non-conformist, was a coherent continuation of the last seasons, where field and bush jackets, the group’s most recognised item of clothing, feature prominently.
“With clients wanting each collection to feel personal, we tried to find different variations on the products so that each woman feels unique,’’ Aquilani said.
The designers highlighted the need to appeal to younger generations, with more youthful and fresh looks, at a time when the sector as a whole was experiencing weaker demand in Asia and from tourists in Europe and the United States.
Italy’s national chamber of fashion forecasts its textile and fashion sector to grow to 62 billion euros in revenues by the end of 2016 or 83.6 billion euros if jewellery and cosmetics are taken into account – up 1.4 per cent from 2015.
Carlo Capasa, the chamber’s president said: “it is hard to predict what will happen, but Italian fashion is holding up well, as our brands are those that set the trends.”