18 September 2016
It is always a different vibe when London fashion week starts. For starters, there’s less traffic getting to the shows, there’s less black, and the clothes always have an attitude. The designers tend to experiment a lot, and these experiments often birth great sartorial ideas.
One of such designers is J.W.Anderson. When you watch his shows, it is almost like he’s messing with your head.
You’re not supposed to like what he sends out, but you do.
He challenges the notion of what fashion is. His level of experimentation isn’t as technical as that of Proenza, that isn’t to say it is any less complex: slashed Tudor sleeves, long knitted dresses, quilt-knee jeans, silk pleated blouse-bombers, and a dress made from layering a series of Irish lines tablecloths.
That child-like sense of inquisitiveness is what makes him one of the reigning kings of British fashion today.
The British-Nigerian Duro Olowu has built a business designing vibrant prints. He made no particular changes this season – not in silhouette or innovation – but he will no doubt sell his highly wearable clothes well.
At Versus Versace, Donatella took her post-show bow sans Anthony Vaccarello (he got hired by Saint Laurent). Did things change for the Versus girl? Quite a bit. “I’m getting back to my Versus girl. She’s a bad girl, a rebel. She breaks rules”, Donatella said. In Versus-speak, that meant lots of ripped denim, leather, and an aluminum mesh that was light enough to be draped and turned into an earring.
“There was a photo of someone wrapped in white plastic working in a field next to a painting of Irish girls – that did it”, Rocha said.
Save for the location, Rocha’s clothes have a religious vibe about them: she opened with white lace dresses and coats that were styled with lace-trimmed rubber gloves and Wellington boots with Lucite heels. They felt monastic, yet domestic at the same time. Sometimes, jackets were half-worn and sometimes, dresses came in enlarged floral prints. Her mix of the unusual is what makes her brand one to keep an interest in.