22 September 2016
We have slowly made our way to the third of the four major fashion weeks of fashion month. We saw tons of ideas and an insouciant vibe in London. Before that, easy clothes in New York. In Milan, the story (so far) is pretty much the same: richness in the form of prints, embellishments, and styling.
It was very clear at Alessandro Michele’s show for Gucci. The clothes he sent out were way more over the top than in past seasons – more decorated and embellished. It was a visual treat. There’s still the seventies vibe in his clothes, though this season, he included a bit of the eighties and it came in the form of Ungaro-esque block-colored taffeta dresses decorated with ruffles. Nostalgia has been the connective thread throughout his work so far. It has yielded beautiful results, no doubt, but from this reviewer, it has become very expected.
Someone who’s also stuck in the seventies is Peter Dundas. His collection for Roberto Cavalli was very bohemian-hippie and seventies rock & roll. Lots of boot-cut pants, suede, fringe, frilly dresses à la Beyoncé in lemonade, and lots of prints. It was like a seventies coachella festival.
After a successful first haute couture show in Paris this past July, Francesco Scognamiglio approached his spring collection with even more directness and focus. “Urban enfant terribles” is what he called his latest offering. The lingerie-inflected clothes were crafted beautifully. His couture hand was evident, via his embroidery and choice of fabrication.
Someone who also dabbled in couture is Alberta Ferretti. She’s the go-to designer for frilly feminine frocks. The news in her collection was structure. Actually, tailoring. She paired pleated feminine dresses and tops over tapered pants or shorts. Her opening look of a leather bandeau and tiered taffeta skirt in amethyst was her attempt on tough femininity. All in all, the little changes to her aesthetic was very welcome.
At No 21, Alessandro Dell’Acqua showed his version of femininity. In his words, he wanted to show the “outmoded tenets of femininity”. That meant showing the contrasting dualities within was is regarded as feminine: sporty & delicate, tough & soft, light & dark. His bow-decorated shoes punctuated every look and further emphasized his chosen theme.