12 September 2016
The remembrance of the victims of 9/11 tragedy that struck the United States of America happened yesterday. It also hit the news that Hillary Clinton was a bit ill, evidenced by a video footage of the presidential candidate stumbling into her car while leaving the memorial service.
Politics has been one of the subjects on the lips of designers. Amongst them is Prabal Gurung, who presented a collection with speeches of prominent women (like Hillary) written across dresses and tops on grosgrain ribbon or with embroidery. Prabal also presented airy dresses with ribbed bodices and flowy skirts in rust and chartreuse.
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony tapped a couple of their celebrity friends which included Whoopi Goldberg, Natasha Lyonne, Rashida Jones, and Aubrey Plaza, to walk their show, which was a comedy/political awareness act. The clothes the duo showed were typical OC, with layering and sport as obvious signatures.
Master of the pencil skirt Joseph Altuzzara was inspired by the David Lynch movie, ‘wild at heart’. He also said he wanted to create a collection that was happy, joyous, flirty, and fun. In Altuzzara terms, that means fun fruity prints, ruffled bra tops and a surprising return of gingham (he did gingham 2 years ago).
The news at Hood by Air: the world’s most visited pornography site, PornHub, sponsored the show. The clothes by Shayne Oliver were typical HBA: fetishized seperates via the introduction of corsetry, gender-fluid separates, and deconstructed suiting.
Jenny Packham was inspired by the controversial piece by Peggy Guggenheim in 1943, “exhibition by 31 women”. She played on the idea, and equally presented exactly 31 looks inspired by her favorite women. The clothes may have had no cohesion whatsoever, but they will no doubt sell, thanks to Packham’s signature embroidery.
Sander Lak’s sophomore outing for his Sies Marjan label saw him let loose. He draped, wrapped, slouched, cut on the bias and criss-crossed tops and dresses in neon and pastels. He definitely exceeded everyone’s expectations.
Also letting loose was Victoria Beckham. Gone are the days of her signature body skimming dresses that made her a house hold name. Even she dresses looser too: she took her bow in a button down shirt with wide pants and flat sandals. Her clothes on the runway? Washed silks and crushed velvets in Lilac or Azure and deconstructed knit dresses that fell open at the neckline to reveal bras underneath. She has indeed grown, and so have her clothes.
Finally, the duo at Tomé, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin celebrated their fifth anniversary in business together with their most polished and refined collection yet inspired by the artists Malick Sidibé and Seydou Keïta: signature black and white done in grown-up separates, rich embroidery on coats and jackets, and a dishabille take on evening dressing.
With America in a sensitive period, it is good to know that the fashion community is paying attention to the happenings, and as such are making clothes to counter the tension: beautiful easy clothes women want to wear at all times.