The spring/summer 2017 fashion week in Stockholm, Sweden, just kicked off yesterday and it came along with a few pleasant surprises, particularly the collections of the graduating students of the Swedish school of textiles.
Minimalism, which is usually associated with the Scandinavian nation, was notably absent, thanks to the heavy presence of maximalism and experimentation which turned out to be the order of the day.
Kicking of the presentation was Matilda Forssblad, whose clothes looked like a more feminine version of Rick Owens.
Vika (Tori) Im’s clothes were reminiscent of the work of Rei Kawakubo, but with a naive twist.
Carolina Johansson’s collection looked like they could belong in a Goga Ashkenazi-designed Vionnet lineup.
Mimi Fielding’s offering looked like cousins of Hood by Air.
Amanda Gerell’s draping was very original, a quality that lent her clothes an unfinished appeal.
Headlines made a statement at Ella Josefin Larsson.
Comfort was key at Ella Boucht.
Julian Falkhorn’s clothes were a sporty version of Ann Demeulemeester.
Margiela’s spirit was very much present at Maja Freiman.
Julia Ragnarsson borrowed a bit of wit from Jeremy Scott.
Helena Theise play on print and deconstruction was a welcome change.
The raw edges at Jennifer Jönsson were Chanel-esque.
Erik Stensson’s menswear was in equal parts innovative and entertaining.
Another Comme Des Garçons reference was seen at Evelin Kägo, but less sinister.
Finally, there was Elias Hög who seemed caught in the Vetements craze.
All in all, this was a stellar showing from the youngsters as there was no reference of the past in the clothes which, for young designers, is quite a feat.
For fashion to move forward, it needs talents such as these who don’t require looking back to create, but rather are fine with using what is already God-given to them: skill and opportunity.