29 September 2016
It’s the second day of Paris fashion week and the show of genuine talent keeps on manifesting from show to show.
A surprising example of that is Rihanna at Fenty X Puma. For her second season, she ditched the gothic tones of her debut for a coquettish vibe. The obvious inspiration was Marie Antoinette, but done street. There were brocade boiler suits in bubblegum pink that were undone to reveal corsets, pearls that clashed with lace do-rags, and gender-fluid menswear.
At Rochas, Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented an ethereal dress-abundant collection that explored his penchant for odd color combinations: marigold chiffon pleats topped baby pink, and emerald green was worn beneath lilac. Elbow-length gloves in contrasting hues added to the mix.
For Christophe Lemaire & Sarah-Linh Tran, the news was color. There was a ruched raspberry cotton dress, a blue-gray crinkled dress worn over silver pants, and a pair of wide-leg pants accompanied by a belted chintz shirt with the sheen of leather. Their understated vocabulary was firmly intact.
Goga Ashkenazi’s collection for Vionnet was dubbed “urban odyssey”. Amongst her offerings: a fishtailed cloak with a quintuple-tiered hem worn above raw-edged denim Bermuda shorts, paneled pleat dresses gathered with rope, and neutral chiffon dresses and suits. It was one of the better collections from Ashkenazi.
Dice Kayek‘s Ece Ege was excited about next year’s 25th anniversary of her co-owned brand, and it showed. Since this was ready-to-wear, she toned down her couture hand but delivered a stellar treatment of denim and white cotton poplin.
Adam Andrascik’s Guy Laroche show saw him focus on deriving structure from the oddest of fabrics. In his case, it was a sheer plasticky nylon that was cut into coats, dresses, and a fabulous pair of high-waisted pair of wide-leg pants.
Lastly, there was the show by Aganovich whose show initially came off as a bit Rick Owens-y. Where Owens’ work registers as sinister, that of Aganovich is Magisterial. Raw calico was dip-dyed in red or black with ribcage-like interwoven panels, finished with chaotic edging. Beautiful.