30 September 2016
Paris fashion week is the most loved week of fashion month, probably because of the individuality that is exhibited amongst the designers.
An example of such is Rick Owens. He does what he likes and what feels true to him. The vibe of his show was both dark and light. His clothes featured draping and twisting, garments that were worn askew, and cloaks that were made from ostrich feathers. His color palette included lavender, acid yellow, and mauve.
Also staying true to himself was Olivier Rousteing. According to him though, “the Balmain army has shed its armor”. The show, which went on a tad bit too long (80 looks), came off as sensual, not overtly sexy. Exposure came in the form of cutouts that were held in place by sheer mesh. Knits and color were also a statement. Evening included art-deco multicolor crystal dresses and draped slinky chainmail.
Off White‘s Virgil Abloh has always been himself, and that’s why he has a steadily growing fanbase. His muse this season was Sigourney Weaver in the 1988 classic movie ‘working girl’. His opening looks saw him play with blue and white striped shirting to which he infused feminine alterations like ruffles. Jeans (produced in collaboration with Levi’s) were striped too. For his aesthetic, it was one of his best collections.
The 80’s was very alive at Barbara Bui. There were lots of neon sportswear. There were lots of PVC suiting. There were lots of patent leather. Never fear though. The clothes were never garish but were quite modern.
J.W.Anderson has proven too many times now that he was the right person for Loewe. He mixed fabrics and textures for spring: linen met burlap, cotton met nylon, patchwork met plissé, jersey met leather, and raw edges met fringe. Folky balloon sleeves hinted at the Spanish heritage of the house. It was luxurious but not flashy, complete but easily pulled apart, modern but ageless.
At Carven, Alexis Martial & Adrien Caillaudaud were inspired by “madam carven’s imaginary heiress”. There were florals and stripes and narrow cargo pants. The plastic jackets, trousers, and skirts they showed were modern and smartly styled.
Paco Rabanne‘s Julien Dossena tried to balance the futuristic ethos of the house with current fashion obsessions: sportswear and street wear. There were parkas and knit hoodies in clinical white. The plastic disc metal-linked chainmail (made popular by Rabanne himself in the 60’s) was re-done light, and looked right for today.
Never mind the tardiness at Ann Demeulemeester. Sébastien Meunier showed some really cool clothes even though they were reminiscent of the work of Haider Ackermann. He showed what could be best referred to as disassembled tailoring. Jackets & coats were twisted into dresses and half-cut shirts. The back was the errogenous zone of the show, save for the fabrics that met at the top of the spine.
Finally, there was the couturier Alexis Mabille, who tried to combine evening with daywear. For instance, there was a chartreuse bomber that shrugged a burnt tangerine silk dress. He also did a take on denim, presenting his as a coat-dress trimmed with broderie-anglaise lace. Super cute.