Even with all the uncertainty currently surrounding fashion, the menswear collections just concluded recently. With over fifty designers showcasing their newest styles from London, to Pitti Uomo, and Paris, here are the top shows.

 

  1. VERSACE

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Why: This was Donatella doing for men what she already does so well for women: sensual sex appeal.

Highlight: The long billowing light-weight parkas rendered in shades of purple, blue, hunter green, and Bordeaux, that topped everything from tshirts to bare chests.

 

2. RAF SIMONS

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Why: Sex (courtesy Robert Mapplethorpe) was approached in a very cerebral and streamlined manner. Every single look was worn with slender black pants.

Highlight: Every. Single. Look.

 

3. GIVENCHY

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Why: Masculinity at its best, which Riccardo Tisci does very well.

highlight: The inclusion of women’s haute couture at the end.

 

4. BALENCIAGA

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Why: As Balenciaga’s first men’s show, this was a very respectful debut effort from Demna Gvasalia.

highlight: the opening look – a boxy coat finished by Gvasalia, but started by Cristobal Balenciaga himself.

 

5. DRIES VAN NOTEN

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Why: As with all of Mr Van Noten’s shows, this was also poetry in motion.

highlight: the knits.

 

6. THOM BROWNE

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Why: Styling and theatrics aside, Browne sent out stunning clothes that can be taken apart & sold easily.

highlight: The theatricality.

 

7. DSQUARED2

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Why: The clothes were a representation of the Catens’ country of origin (Canada) and residence (England).

highlight: Those high heeled boots (6-inch) worn by every single model.

 

8. BALMAIN

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Why: The clothes look are put together in such an incredibly effortless manner, even with how incredibly expensive they are.

highlight: All the Denim. All the Colours.

 

9. J.W.ANDERSON

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Why: As always is with Anderson, this was also a cornucopia of ideas that could be distilled into wearable clothes.

highlight: The beaded crowns worn in the show were reminiscent of those worn by women of the Nigerian Edo tribe.

 

10. COMME DES GARÇONS SHIRT

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Why: For a label focused on shirting, there’s something to be said about being able to reinvent (every season) a basic workaday item of the masculine wardrobe.

highlight: Army shirting collaged into a striped blue poplin.

 

Author: Kayito Nwokedi